The many delights of the Galilee

We traveled with a few friends to the Galilee recently, and as luck would have it, it was a spectacularly clear day – one of the top 20 for the year!

We found a nice spot, with a superb view of the northern Galilee

for an Arabic coffee and Anzac biscuits morning tea, and then we drove down to the actual historic site in Capernaum.

Although we have driven around the other side of the lake, we had not previously visited the sites around the western Galilee, so this was a trip to a new region in Israel. First stop Capernaum.

Archaeological evidence shows that Capernaum was a fishing village inhabited continuously from the 1st century BC to the 13th century AD. It is frequently mentioned in the Gospels and was the main base for Jesus during His Galilean ministry, and was the home of Peter and Andrew.

We looked down on the remains of the house belonging to the disciple Peter. We are told that Jesus had no home of his own, and He often stayed with Peter’s family. It was very special to visit this octagonal structure which had been blessed by the presence of Jesus—indeed the whole area has been blessed by His footsteps.

There is a Synagogue nearby that is dated at between the 2nd and 5th centuries AD.

There is a black basalt foundation beneath the white synagogue, probably an older synagogue that was destroyed or demolished.

Between the Church and the Synagogue and all around, lie the remains of very small dwellings belonging to the city’s inhabitants (either the people of those early days were very tiny or else they slept standing up!).

In the 5th century, the site was razed to the ground and a grander church was built in its place, indicating an increased Christian population. The new church was octagonal in shape and had an ambulatory; this layout is identical to churches of the same type in Italy and Syria and similar to the Dome of the Rock mosque in Jerusalem. Both the church and synagogue were destroyed prior to the Islamic conquest in 638 AD. The current church has an interesting, if unusual “sci-fi” design! It even includes the words "Peter" made into lattice work.

Most of the shore of the Sea of Galilee is rocky, but there are a few places where a sandy beach can be found.

Currently the water level is critically low—even further below sea level than usual.

A beautiful Orthodox church was built right near the sea,

and has recently been completely refurbished. It has an amazing display of paintings all over the walls and ceiling.

Outside behind the church is a lovely shaded spot, with a small aviary and benches and tables; ideal for our picnic lunch. Fresh home made bread, garden fresh salads, hummus, cheese and cold meats, brewed coffee and sweets—a veritable feast! We lingered and did it justice.

Close by is the area where Jesus preached the “sermon on the mount”; there is a small cave at the top of the hillside outside of which Jesus would have stood so the followers could hear Him.

We sat on 2 wooden benches set in this cave and looked out on a most beautiful view of the Sea of Galilee, surrounded by hills at the most eastern side of Israel.

Some 10 km further south, at the Yigal Allon Museum in Kibbutz Ginosar, we came across something quite amazing. In 1986, an ancient boat was pulled from the mud along the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee. It was a very exciting find that gives an idea of the sort of fishing boat used 2000 years ago in these waters. The boat appeared after a long drought during which the lake receded. The timber did not rot but was very soft and was would crumble if touched.

Pulling the boat from the mud without damaging it was a difficult task and lasted 12 days—it was “wrapped” in a casing of fiberglass and floated to safety. The boat was cleaned then submerged in a chemical bath for 7 years before it could be displayed—this process ensured that a wax compound replaced all the moisture in the wood.

The boat has been dated to the 1st century AD based on pottery and nails found in association with the boat, radiocarbon dating, and hull construction techniques. Evidence of repeated repairs indicates the boat was used for several decades, perhaps nearly a century. The boat is made of 12 different types of wood and measures 8.2m long, 2.3m wide and 1.25m high. It would have had a crew of five (four rowers and a helmsman) and could carry about 15 additional persons. This seems like a lot for such a humble boat, but people were much smaller 2,000 years ago, apparently. It is known as the “Jesus Boat” and more accurately, the “Galilee Boat”.

There is a narrow windy road on the southwestern side of the Galilee that is called the "zigzag" road to "Switzerland". It is one of the most scenic roads in the upper part of Israel. It is autumn now in Israel, still quite warm but the days are rapidly shrinking.

As we started our drive back to Haifa, the sun was westering and the colours were changing on the hills as we stood to watch; we had to drag ourselves away from the peaceful beauty of the lake and hills, so enchanting now with the moon rising over the Lake. We all knew we had been gifted with this special visit to a Holy spot on a most beautifully clear day, and we returned serene and replete both physically and spiritually. Thanks to Mark for these photos.

Back in Haifa, some lovely friends from Perth visited their daughter Ella recently – Wendy and Jerome Wisniewski. Also Lobna Rohani breezed in for a very short visit; it was nice to catch up. We had a lovely morning tea with Julia McPharlin from Perth who is serving here as well.We also received this wedding photo of a sweet lass, Soriah (pronounced “Sorayyah”) who commenced her service in Haifa at the same time as us and left after the wedding with hubby “Anis” (they met here) to live in Brazil. She would like us to visit them there; as would Jenny Marshall who left for New Zealand recently. By the time we leave this Holy land, we will have close friends in all corners of the globe to visit (Korea, USA, Canada, Argentina, New Zealand, Africa, etc. etc…) Wouldn’t that be lovely…..