Traveling in Jordan 1 - Christian Holy Sites

The country of Jordan, officially known as the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, is described as a constitutional monarchy with a representative government. It is a country composed of a majority Sunni Muslim population, representing more than 90% of the total population of 6.5 million, with a minority of Christians making up around 6% of the people.

Every morning we awake to the sound of the Azaan, the Muslim call to prayer, emanating from the loud speakers in the minaret of a nearby mosque. However, you need to leave Amman to see the Christian Holy sites. On a recent trip we visited 2 Christian Holy Places - Madaba, a town with a sizable Christian population, and then the baptism site of Jesus. Both sites are fairly close to Amman as the following map shows.
Madaba's chief attraction is a wonderfully vivid, 6th-century Byzantine mosaic map, located in the contemporary Greek Orthodox church of St.George.The map shows, though not to scale, the entire region from Jordan and Palestine in the north, to Egypt in the south, The Mediterranean Sea in the west, and includes a fascinating plan of Jerusalem.

The entrance to the church is quite spectacular,
and includes a painting of St.George.
Madaba was sacked by the Persians in 614, and its destruction was completed by the earthquake of 747. It stood abandoned for over 1000 years until, around 1880, a group of about 2000 Christians settled here. In the process of rebuilding, they found the mosaics buried under the rubble.
The map was originally nearly 100 square metres in size, it contained over two million mosaic pieces; approx. a quarter of which exists today.
A pictorial of the remaining mosaics shows how extensive the original map was.

Inside the church hang iconic pictures --- most in mosaic --- often donated in memory of a family member who has passed away.



From Madaba the road winds down to the Dead Sea, into which the Jordan river flows. Along the way we passed by the site where Moses pointed out to the Israelites the promised land, having roamed through Trans-Jordan for some 40 years following their exodus from Egypt. A church has been erected on this hill known as Mount Nebo, with a metal staff depicting the staff of Moses. It is symbolic of the bronze serpent created by Moses in the wilderness and the cross upon which Jesus was crucified

The terrain is seemingly barren and stony, but the wadi (valley) structures in the surrounding hills are spectacular.
This desert is stony - not the sandy expanses found elsewhere in the Middle East.
Townships dot the surrounding hills and lower sections of these hills.
Unusual rock formations can be found as well. It is winter time when all the rain falls, so it looks relatively green now compared to the previous 6 months of last summer and a fairly dry winter until this month.
Nevertheless, not a place for the inexperienced hiker.
Although they may at first glance look like goats, these are indeed sheep.
As the water runs off the bitumen road, it collects in channels on the sides of the road so the grass grows best here - the lambs are white or brown and white.
Here is a cute little lamb showing off for the tourists!
The Bedouins own these sheep and still migrate with their herds in search of food for the animals, living in large tents in what appears an inhospitable terrain.
Not the type of sheep farming we are used to in Australia.
Close to the Baptism Site - which is recognised as the authentic site by most scholars, churches of different Christian denominations have been built, and more are under construction.
A spring mentioned by pilgrims, travellers and historians is called "John the Baptist spring", and is noted for its cool clear water.
A monument marks the site of three churches that were built on the spot where the baptism of Jesus took place.
The remains of these three churches can be seen in this photo, and our guide, an archeologist, has been involved in the excavation of the site for 13 years, after it was no longer a strictly military area. Indeed the site has only been open since 1998, after the peace accord was signed with Israel.
Sadly, on the day we visited, the place that is agreed as the exact location of the baptism, was a muddy area at the foot of a number of marble steps.
At other times, water is pumped from the river to fill the depression. Many Christian pilgrims come to this site and perform baptism ceremonies, normally in small groups and accompanied by the group's pastor. The following photo was obtained from the web and shows how the pilgrims get baptised - usually in the summer months:A walk of 500 metres is required before you come to the actual Jordan river today, which is no more than 4-6 metres wide. The most surprising thing along the way is a dense wooded area (albeit mostly tall dry reeds), known as the Jordan river forest.History records the river as being up to a one kilometre wide and swift flowing after rains, indeed the lower of the 3 churches at the baptism site was washed away in those early days of Christianity.
At this spot, the border between Jordan and Israel is very close indeed,
with soldiers on both sides looking very relaxed.
The flag of Israel flutters in the breeze - a country where we spent 5 blessed years as Baha'i volunteers in Haifa.
There was no tour group on the Israeli side, otherwise we could have exchanged food and drinks - it was so close!
As it has done for centuries, though sadly at a much reduced volume, the river Jordan winds its way to the Dead Sea. Reeds cover the banks, and fish, sensing the saltiness of the water, turn around to swim upstream.
A new Greek Orthodox church is close to the place where pilgrims and tourists can see the Jordan river today.
Inside are paintings and icons typical of these churches.



As we look back, we see the river Jordan --- scene of so much history and so many events, both old and new that define the current Middle East --- continue on its way, oblivious of the tensions that grip the region.

Next stop, Petra.