Friday, May 04, 2007

Back to Perth and a lovely day in the Golan Heights

After 14 months in Haifa it was time to visit family and friends and so it was that we traveled a long way for a short time in Perth. Flying economy class is still a novelty that Allan could learn not to become accustomed to!!! After seeing the family of our son-in-law at grandfather Rex’s 80th birthday celebration (we went there almost straight from the airport!), we spent lots of time with our daughter Allison and her husband JJ as well as Muna’s brother Fareed. Allan then went on to Wagga Wagga in NSW to visit his parents; after nine flights and six days of traveling, he ended up back in Haifa. Muna stayed in Perth, shopped and visited friends and suffered only six flights. We are trying to interest Qantas in a direct flight!

The Ridván festival from April 21 to May 2 is the most important Holy Day in the Bahá’í calendar and the first day was celebrated at Bahjí which is the holiest spot for Bahá’ís—some 45 minutes drive from Haifa and half way to the border of Lebanon.
Sunset at Bahjí sheds a glorious glow on these very beautiful and peaceful gardens.
There are three days out of the 12 days of Ridván on which we do not work, so it was a great opportunity for us and ten friends to see some more of Israel before it gets too hot. The Gamla Nature Reserve on the Golan Heights was our destination. It had once been a Jewish fortress captured by the Romans in the Great Revolt. It is named Gamla after the Hebrew word for camel (gamal), because the ancient fortress is on a mountain that is shaped remarkably like a camel.

On the kilometer walk to the Gamla waterfall, which at 50m is the highest in Israel (OK, so it is not Niagara Falls, but very impressive by local standards!), we passed a field of red poppies which were a sight to behold.

Seeing water flowing like this is a rare event in this desert country.
Being wild flower season, there were a host of small and large flowering plants, including many prickly varieties, which we enjoyed without the burden of finding out their names!!!

The remains of the ancient settlement of Gamla are reached via a steep descent that took us about 20 minutes (and 40 minutes coming up!). Gamla was an important city at the end of the Second Temple period and it is possible that Jesus visited Gamla. The city catapulted to fame because of its role in early days of the Great Revolt (67 C.E.).
In his book, The Jewish War, the Roman historian Josephus Flavius tells in great detail the dramatic story of how the Jews of Gamla fought the Romans tooth and nail. When they saw that they had no chance whatsoever of victory, the Jews chose to commit suicide by jumping off the precipice rather than fall into captivity. It’s a long jump!

The reserve boasts both a phenomenal concentration of birds of prey, some of them rare, living in a relatively small area. Scores of pairs of Griffon vultures nest on the cliffs, making up the largest flock of Griffon vultures in Israel. In the afternoon we saw them circling overhead in large numbers and from the remains of the fortress, they were actually flying below us.
Coming from Australia, the archeology of Israel is amazing and Gamla has remains of a church from the Byzantine period, the earliest known synagogue in the world which was used for prayer until the destruction of the Second Temple, an aqueduct, a ritual bath, and many public buildings. The arrowheads and slingstones found here are sad mementos of the battle waged and lost at Gamla.


On Fridays, we work only half a day and there are a lot of short trips that you can do from Haifa, starting at noon. Together with two Bahá’í youth, Sacha and Ginous, we went to Caesarea, a coastal port of great significance during Roman times and a major tourist attraction. On the site of what once was a Phoenician town, King Herod (34 - 4 BCE) built a resplendent port city and named it after his patron – Augustus Caesar. Its inhabitants – Romans, Jews and Samaritans enjoyed the pleasures of the Roman world - bath houses and places of entertainment. Herod, of course, had a great palace built for himself, courtesy of plenty of slave labour! Then the Jews rebelled in 66 CE and the city only again reached the height of its prosperity in the Byzantine period (fourth to sixth centuries CE). After the Muslims conquered the land in the seventh century, Caesarea’s fortunes declined until the crusaders captured the town in 1101 CE. Eighty six years later Saladin conquered the town and destroyed its walls, which were rebuilt and fortified by the French king Louis IX. However, (you’ve guessed!) the strengthened walls could not repel the Mameluke Sultan, Babar, who conquered the city in 1265.

So a lot of people have been through, and now Allan and Muna are added to the list, though we only captured photos. These people were amazingly clean and had saunas and hot and cold baths, which also served as a place of social contact. A bath stood on top of these pylons and the fires would rage underneath to create plenty of steam.
There were amazing mosaic floors as well – thousands of years old – it really does make an impression on the boy from Oz, especially when people walk all over them!
Of course Allan loves the water and so the blues and greens of the Mediterranean hold a special fascination, as they do to the wind surfers and dozens of yachts that take advantage of the constant breeze.The Romans loved a good chariot race and although this team does not look like they are going to win, the hippodrome was a place of great spectacles – the remnants are in excellent condition; you can really get a sense of what people did on a Friday night before Aussie Rules football (AFL) was invented.
Here you see some latter-day gladiators getting ready to entertain the masses!
There is so much to see in this ancient land – so rich with history and small enough to make it all very accessible; we are indeed fortunate and thankful to be here. Enjoy the Aussie winter and may it be a reasonably wet one!

Can't get away from those Golden Arches!!!

Dear friends, a different post this time as we thought we might give you a photographic view of some things that are very familiar around Haifa and some that, well, we still are wondering about. Take for example this restaurant frontage - maybe not for vegetarians??
Allan went exploring when is saw this kangaroo symbol – only to be baffled. All he found was a group of children having a party with balloons and face painting!!!!
Of course there are the obvious and expected things, like Coca Cola, McDonalds and Toyota,

but who would have thought that Speedo swimwear had a factory here in Israel,
or that Guinness can be found in an Irish looking pub.
A visit to the supermarket finds lots of familiar things – well at least the pictures are familiar even if the writing is something that makes it impossible to know what the ingredients are:

So many Israelis have dogs, even though few have gardens and most live in small flats; few have cats for pets but there is certainly no shortage of stray cats in Haifa and they do not live on Friskies or Whiskas!

Of course we have sales, take-away places and Asian food, as well as places to park – easy to find if you read Hebrew or Arabic! By the way, both are written from right to left, and in Hebrew, the numbers are written the European way and have masculine and feminine forms from 1-10 (after that only one form).
The Gelato place is easy to find and lots of flavours to choose from—will get popular with the fast approaching summer. Obviously the teenage mutant ninga turtles are making a come back – I see the movie listed in the local guide and wonder whether it is as big in europe and the rest of Asia?
And spring is certainly here with the blossoms abounding and the window boxes full of colour.
The tulips we showed in our last blog update all finished in March to be replaced by the most interesting orange plastic mushrooms – even the locals were a bit perplexed! We were relieved to see on our return from holidays in Os that they have been removed and we have now a lovely display of pink and red petunias—which we understand.
The Baha’i gardens and terraces are a major tourist attraction and there is a zoo here for children as well - it is very low on our list of things to see in Haifa.
Public transport (taxis, buses and sherutes) is very accessible, and there are simply way too many cars in Haifa – yes we added one more! The sherute (10 passengers) is the most common type of transport – for a dollar fifty you can go a block or all the way home – they stop and pick up and let down anywhere on the designated routes, which are the same as bus routes in Haifa. You can use it for inter-city travel as well—the young staff members use them extensively.
Money is available everywhere (only one’s own!)– ATMs are a great saviour when you see that bargain you just have to get! And lotto seems to be universal as well….

We went with a group of friends to see the Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra under the conductorship of Zubin Mehta (we wouldn’t want our friends to think we are philistines!!!); world renowned violinist, Sarah Chang, played the Sibelius: Violin Concerto—a bit of culture enjoyed by all.
Of course there are lots of signs that are instinctive, here are two common ones:
Yes, despite living primarily in flats, Israelis love their dogs, and walking is often an exercise in careful foot placement, despite the signs!

Next time, we will share with you some photos of our quick trip back to Australia and a lovely day out in the Gamla National Park in Golan Heights northeast of the Sea of Galilee. Till then, keep smiling!