Friday, December 07, 2007

Tefen - An Industrial park that surprises!

Tefen is an unusual style of "industrial park", one that is a showcase for high technology, it blends a combination of modern art, museum and working businesses. Some very high tech items are made here, as well as more traditional ones.

Our main interest was to find the glass manufacturer and see if we could afford any of the pieces on sale - fortunately they had a "seconds" section with beautiful work and we bought some of a special reminder of our stay in Israel

For example, Gamila producessoaps and candles and lovely perfumes from olives - and employs many Arab women as a result.
There are 3 museums - ironically a vintage car museum featuring the only Israeli sports car, a lithograph museum and one dedicated to machine tool production. There is an amazing museum highlighting the contribution of German Jews to the world - including many Nobel Peace Prize winners, and men and women who made contributions in science, the arts, politics, literature and so on.

We start by featuring some of the more than 40 original art pieces that are found throughout the estate. This one is a tower that is not just for kids.


Not sure how to describe this piece - but you can spend a long time looking at it.
No doubt meaningful, I cannot recall the name.

This one is very clever.
See, I really was there.

The lithographer Hermann Struck was a local Haifa boy and his house still stands. He was a master calligrpher and here are just two pieces.


Muna loved the car museum and especialy loved the use of colour on these cars - she is death on white and silver, the two most common colours.
The 1964 Sabra was not such a big hit overseas!


A walk around a few more pieces of artwork
and then off to find a French restaurant in a little village, quite literally in the middle of nowhere - but lots of other patrons also found it.

Friends and family visiting

We start this update with a rather unusual awakening one morning recently - a woodpecker pecking at a tree branch outside the window. At first we thought it improbable, but the pecking continued and sure enough, there the bird was. Then some finches later came and seemed to be pecking away at the same spot. A few days later the woodpecker was back. It’s so nice to have trees and birds outside our windows.

A wonderful friend, Edna Wallace from Bridgetown in Western Australia was on pilgrimage recently and we had a chance to catch up with at dinner in our flat. After so many years Edna finally saw the great beauty and experienced the deep spiritual impact of the Bahá’í holy places.

Muna’s brother Sam and his wife Laal and daughter Lena (from USA) visited for two weeks in late November and early December. It was a great opportunity for the five of us to visit various scenic spots around Israel. Apart from Nazareth and the Druze village, we spent a lovely day visiting Zippori and bet She’arim - two very significant historical sites. Muna and Allan had previously visited these places with friends. Here is some background on them. Ancient Zippori - also known by its Greek name Sepphoris - is mentioned in Josephus Flavius' description of the reign of Hasmonean king Alexander Jannaeus and became the most important city in the Galilee. In 37 B.C.E., Herod conquered Zippori but after his death in 4 C.E., the citizens began to mutiny and eventually the soldiers under Roman governor Varus captured Zippori and destroyed the city. Soon after it was rebuilt and Herod Antipas did such a fine job of restoring and beautifying the city that Josephus dubbed it the "glory of the entire Galilee." When the renowned Rabbi Judah Hanasi moved to Zippori from Beit She'arim, he brought with him the Sanhedrin (assembly of 71 ordained scholars, which served both as legislature and a supreme court).

Zippori is known for its amazing mosaics - illustrations from the life of Dionysis, the Greek god of wine, and also what is known as the “Mona Lisa of the Galilee”. The Roman-period city with its carefully laid-out series of parallel and perpendicular streets – you can still see the grooves in the stone streets where the wagons and chariots rode up and down. The Nile Mosaic building, a large fifth-century structure with an ornate mosaic floor depicts the festival held when the level of the Nile River reached its highest point, thereby showing the importance of this city to many civilizations.From the fifth century on, Zippori was inhabited by both Christians and Jews. The Crusaders built a church in memory of Saint Anne at Zippori, as they believed that Mary's parents, Saint Anne and Saint Joachim, had lived here. Parts of the Crusader church are still standing.

On a previous occasion, Anja, a dear friend from Germany, sang a most glorious rendition of a song from Les Miserables while we sat in the amphitheatre. She has a glorious voice and the acoustics were amazing. After a sumptuous lunch at the Herb Farm Restaurant, which specialises in country cooking and fine food, we went to Beit She'arim. Built on a low hill in the western part of the lower Galilee, Beit She'arim flourished from the second through the fourth centuries C.E. The residents dug an ornate necropolis deep into the ground. Courtyards, corridors, and staircases lead to the catacombs with their burial chambers and stone sarcophagi. The chambers and sarcophagi are decorated with bas-reliefs, epitaphs, and frescoes. The mouths of some of the caves were closed with hewn stone doors, shaped to resemble wooden doors. The bas-reliefs and drawings are representative of Roman-period Jewish folk art. The artwork in all the caves contains Jewish elements, such as the seven-branched candelabrum, the Holy Ark, a ram's horn (shofar), and a palm branch. Secular themes, including boats, animals, human figures, and geometrical designs, also appear. Although most of the epitaphs are in Greek, the lingua franca of Eretz Israel at the time, there are some in Hebrew, Aramaic, and Tadmoerite.
During a previous visit with another group of friends we stopped at this area and had a moving memorial for Muna’s mother who recently passed away. We later found out that this was a place used from ancient times to remember those who have passed to the next world.

We also visited Akka and our favourite Arabic sweets place – not the sort of things that Muna’s Yankee brother and sister-in-law get very often.

November and December rains have fallen and this is a real blessing in this desert country. The gardens are looking absolutely beautiful.

Thursday, October 04, 2007

Yom Kippur

It’s eerily quiet in Haifa. It is Friday evening, 21st September and the special Jewish Yom Kippur Holy Day. Just a week ago we had Rosh Hashanah – the “Head of the Year” which is the official Jewish New Year’s day – a time of great festivities as well as a time of looking back on the previous year and looking ahead to the coming year. The blowing of the ram’s horn – called a Shofar – in the synagogue or temple announces the coming of the New Year in a memorable way; we have just begun the Jewish year 5768! Jews believe that between Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur, God judges each person’s deeds, deciding who will live and who shall die in the year to come. Therefore they pray fervently, fasting for the entire day of Yom Kippur, the “Day of Atonement”. Hence the eerie quiet. Very few adults are around for most of the day.

Yom Kippur was special this year as it coincided with Shabbat – the weekly day of rest – which starts at sunset on Friday and goes through to sunset on Saturday. On Yom Kippur it is not permissible to drive cars and so you might think the streets would be deserted. Not so. It is the one day of the year when children ride bicycles at any time of the day or night - and anywhere! It is a sight to behold – main roads which are normally jammed with traffic—cars honking their horns, sherutes frenetically weaving their way through traffic to pick up or drop passengers—are empty. Families like to walk down the lanes of the roads, with their strollers. Children on scooters and new bikes are riding all over the roads. Red lights don’t have much meaning on Yom Kippur.

This year, our dear neighbour invited us to accompany her to the Synagogue for part of the Yom Kippur service. We have visited a few synagogues, but not during such an important ceremony. Allan donned a kippah – the Jewish “skull cap” and off we went just before dusk on Friday night – on foot. Walking to a place of worship is nice, especially as the evenings are now pleasantly cool and couples make their way from side alleys and staircases – Haifa is built on a mountain. Although the ceremony lasts for several hours, many people come and experience part of the service and then leave. A Rabbi chants from a combination of the Torah and the writings of other famous Rabbis, and everyone follows from the prayer book. Each time the section chanted is from the Torah – the Jewish Holy Book – a curtain is opened in front of the congregation to expose the Torah scroll, wrapped in linen cloth. We stayed about 40 minutes in the Synagogue. The walk home was wonderful – a reflective time and a unique opportunity to learn more about Jewish tradition and practices from our neighbour.

Now that the weather is finally cooling down and the long-awaited pleasant autumn days are approaching, it is time to bring out the esky and the fold-up chairs and start visiting more places around Israel. One place that was highly recommended by Diane Costello and Doug Wilson when they visited us last February, was Netanya, which has the distinction of having the first Ikea store in Israel! It is a very popular tourist spot.
It is a new town half way between Haifa and Tel Aviv and has been largely settled by French-Jewish immigrants, hence the patisseries and restaurants are quite different to other cities. It's just like being in France with lots of cafes with chairs that face out into the street and plenty of ‘alfresco’ tables in the street itself (fortunately, a pedestrians only!!!). With a population of 170,000 it is one of the bigger cities in Israel (Haifa is the third largest city and has a population of 270,000). The big attraction is the 11 km of some of the finest beaches in Israel, and the Ha Rishonim Promenade, the cliff above the beach, offers magnificent views,
especially if you are a paraglider. Evening concerts are held throughout the summer.
The parks are green and lush - even some toadstills appear!
if you ever wondered how to write Australia in Hebrew - here is your chance to learn. And it is not surprising that Netanya is the sister city of the Gold Coast and a few other cities as well!
We also said farewell to a delightful Korean staff member who came the same time we did. Youngmin is such a sweet lass and some close friends took her to Yehiam fort for a farewell picnic, then continued on to Bahjí as the sun was setting in the sky. She will be sorely missed and we now have reached the stage in our service where we are saying good-bye to dear friends who have served 1 to 2 years. The wonderful thing is that new friends arrive each month and so a kaleidoscope of nationalities continues to brighten up the Bahá’í World Centre. We have also been to a few weddings of late – here is a photo of a relative of Muna – Payam Etminani and his bride Karina Purushotma.
Finally, we leave you with something we found uplifting:

Shed the light of a boundless love on every human being whom you meet, whether of your country, your race, your political party, or of any other nation, colour or shade of political opinion. Heaven will support you while you work in this in-gathering of the scattered peoples of the world beneath the shadow of the almighty tent of unity.

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

The luck of the Irish

We have returned from a fabulous week in Ireland where we attended the annual Summer School organized by the Irish Bahá’í community— this was one goal we set ourselves while serving in the Holy Land. The venue was Waterford, famous for its crystal, some 150km south of Dublin. It had been raining for three solid weeks prior to our arrival and the weather forecast was for more to come. We were quite interested to see this phenomenon called rain as we have had none in Haifa since April and we probably won’t see any until November or December. But Dublin turned out a dry cloudy day for our arrival and our bus from the airport took us through the old part of town with its mix of old and new. Everywhere, flower boxes hanging from 2nd and 3rd floor windows created a gorgeous cascade of colour. Our whole week then turned out to be sunny and warm – 18 to 20C— which is all it takes for the Irish to get into shorts and eat ice cream! The old joke – it only rains twice a week in Ireland, once for 4 days and the other for 3 days – certainly did not hold true for this week!

Waterford is best reached by train, and our taxi ride to Heuston station turned out to be a guided tour of Dublin as the driver pointed out many points of historical interest— what a different picture one has compared to the view of Ireland during the bad days of sectarian fighting. The 2½ hours train journey was made all the more pleasant by the company of Sahba Naraqi, a lovely lass who used to serve in Haifa. Allan chatted with a local guy (who was a mine of information!) and again obtained a history of the region— the Irish appear to be as friendly us Aussies. You can see Dawn and Larry Staudt having a cuppa with us - they are good friends of the Hencks who serve in Haifa.Around 600 participants attended the Summer School; we both gave presentations to the main adult sessions as well as the youth (the children and junior youth had a lucky escape!!!). The Bahá’ís of Ireland certainly know how to have fun and stay up all hours! Entertainment started at 10p. Sahar and Luke sang beautifully at a morning devotional with children ayouth and adults. and the day’s sessions started at 9:45am—all in a very relaxed atmosphere. It was great to see so much talent— afternoons were devoted to the arts and after a siesta, Allan enjoyed a creative writing course, while Muna just read and napped. As expected, we met many people with whom we had friends in common. A week filled with joy and laughter ensured that we returned to Haifa rested and replenished.

July and August are typically the hottest and most humid months in Haifa; so many activities revert indoors or take place in the morning or evening. We have had some wonderful lunches and dinners with friends and have continued giving classes. Some youth came over for brunch and a study class very recently. Two youth—Rashel Jahangirian and Mona Manouchehri—will be readily recognizable as they have recently come from Perth to serve. Muna made some Arabic style food as well as her famous scones.

Allan has a new staff member, Vahid, in the Office and we hosted a welcome dinner for him. Originally from Saipan in the Mariana Islands, Vahid has completed studies in English literature and brings a real strength to the Office. Edward and Noel Broomhall, friends from Tasmania/Australia, came to Haifa for six weeks in May and June and this presented an opportunity to take them to some places we have not been to. One was Tsfat (Safad), a very Jewish town in the north of Israel, fairly elevated (and thus cooler in summer) and famous for its many artist shops and galleries in the old souq (market). You can still see evidence - bullet holes - on this building of the fighting that took place in this town. There are two places that make amazing candles. This is a rendition of Noah and the ark. Some candles stand meters tall. Here are a few photos to give you a flavour of the town. This photo is inside a very old Jewish Synagogue – you can see that the Jews do not throw away Holy books – they are stored in cupboards until they return to dust. We visited a potter friend of the Broomhall’s (from UK) and marveled at his skill.

We also visited an old crusader fort at Yehiam, which is well preserved and offers majestic views stretching towards Lebanon and the Mediterranean. There is a Byzantine burial chamber and the advertising shows a much more recent presence! A narrow staircase leads up five flights of stairs to the fortress look-out and a breath-taking view! As the weather cools down a bit we look forward to more travelling - being out and about in Israel - discovering new places and revisiting spots that we really like.